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Chikankari— Nawabi Art continued…..

In a previous blog, we revealed to you the history of Chikankari and how the beautiful Chikankari work is done. In today’s blog, we will tell you more about the art that is Chikankari!

Let’s take a look at the main stitches used in Chikankari –


      JALI : This type of stitch is actually a specialty of Lucknow. The technique uses buttonhole stitches with a blunt needle, to make a “Jali” or net, where the thread is not drawn through the fabric. What this type of stitch does is that it makes the fabric look the same from both the front and back sides. 

      Tepchi            : This is a long running stitch, which is worked with 6 strands on the right side of the fabric, which is taken over 4 threads and then a single one is picked up. This type of stitch is mainly used for the border of motifs.

      Murri : This stitch is used for embroidery in the center of flowers, and the shape is similar to that of a grain of rice.

      Bakhiya : Bakhiya or shadow stitching is done on the back side of the fabric, so that the outline and color is seen on the front.

      Zanzeera : Another name for Zanzeera is the chain stitch and this stitch is used to outline the petals, when they are connected to the main pattern.

      HooL : It is used to design the heart of a flower, with a detached eyelet stitch.

      Phanda : This stitch is used to make the vines of the flowers and the shape is one that can be described as a grain of millet.

      Rahet : This is a single stitch technique, used to make plant stem designs.

      Keel Kangan :  This is a beautiful stitch, often used to make floral motifs.

      Khatua : A finer form of Bakhiya, the design is formed on calico material and it is placed over the surface of the final fabric. Then, the paisley or floral motifs are stitched onto it.

      Turpai : Another significant stitch used in Chikankari, this one is used to create the effect of a really thin thread.

      Apart from these main stitches, there are also some other stitches that are used in Chikankari, including Makra, Hatkadi, Kaudi, Kapkapi, Sazi, Karan, Jora, Bulbul, Dhania-Patti, Rozan, Chanapatti, and Ghaskipatti.

Fabric Used:

Chikan work was originally done only on muslin or sheer cotton cloth with white thread. Nowadays, it is done on a variety of fabrics including silk, chiffon, georgette, net, mulls, voiles, organza and polyester. Silk and cotton threads are used for embroidery on sarees, tunics, kurtas, kurtis, anarkalis, palazzos and even table linen and cushion covers.

beautiful Chikankari work kurtis


Recent changes:

Fashion is constantly changing and each day you see something new being created. However, there are some things for which the fascination of people will never change, and Chikan happens to be one of them. This ancient art form is the epitome of our cultural heritage, and Shree’s extensive collection depicts just that!

Walk into our online store and you will get to see an entire collection inspired by Chikankari. The elegant shadow work, when combined with interesting and modern designs, will certainly steal your hearts and offer you style that will win you so much attention!

If you too want to own a small piece of history, visit byshree.com today!

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